Made*In*Italy*On*Line
Newsletter - February, 1996
Report from Spring/Summer '96 Milan Collections>br>
Fashion is well and alive in Milan: a new creative gust sprang up from the
collections. Along with Armani, Versace and Dolce&Gabbana, now there are at
least two other influential shows not to be missed: Gucci and Prada. The former has regained much of its past allure thanks to its talented creative director Tom Ford, the latter is a "cult" name among fashion insiders. No doubt other factors played a significant role: fear of bombing persuaded many buyers to avoid Paris catwalks and therefore to swell orders in Milan, which also benefited from a permanently weak lira. Fashion icon Dawn Mello of Bergdorf Goodman said they raised their budget by approximately. 20%.
After years of stiff "conservative chic", which proved to be a fad, now Milan's
buzzword for this season is "relaxed chic" which means less tailored, more
comfortable clothes. Many designers took inspiration from the past, especially
from the late Sixties-mid Seventies era - a sort of post Mod and hippie remix:
low-waisted pants galore everywhere (Callaghan, Gucci, Alberta Ferretti);
optical black & white and Courreges-style (Genny, Iceberg, Les Copains); as
for fabrics there was a big, though unexpected return to lace (Mariella Burani,
Bluemarine, Gucci, Helmut Lang) and embroidery, nylon and polyester (Prada) and
silk shantungs (Dolce&Gabbana); lots of psychedelic and animal prints - zebra
and snake the hottest - (Dolce&Gabbana) and intense acid colors like lime green
(Iceberg, Missoni, Istante) or dazzling yellow (Genny, Gianni Versace).
Finally, two other important results achieved by the latest Milan catwalks
should be pointed out: first, bad taste (Prada, Gucci) as the ultimate trend
and secondly the longed for disappearance of the blue & white navy-style look
with all those crests and anchors which threatened to be a permanent feature of
all spring-summer collections.
GIANNI VERSACE
This was undoubtedly one of Versace's best collections ever:
this time he concentrated more on cuts and pure lines rather than decoration,
paring down all those baroque prints and gilt medusas. Long-sleeved knit
turtlenecks in bright-orange over hip-hugging pants. Many transparencies and
high splits. Prints were very lively like the bold brushstrokes on white or
lime-green dresses, bags and shoes as those worn by Karen Mulder.
GIORGIO ARMANI
A must-see of Milan shows. Pefectly tailored pantsuits as
usual in smooth, couture-like fabrics. Lots of trousers because according
to Armani "that's what women want". Precious night dresses with organza skirts
coupled with bustiers in shining jais. Embroidered flowers on fluid garments
were the small revolution introduced by Armani in this elegant collection.
GUCCI
"Think remix, not retro", suggested Gucci press release. Actually the
collection presented by Tom Ford was quite, let's say, eclectic: long and short
caftans, lime-green shirts, black lace dresses for both day and night that
looked perfect on Linda Evangelista. The classical Gucci blouse is now transparent
and matched with hip-huggers and python boots: a relaxed look for "deluxe hippies",
sexy enough not to pass unobserved. Not exactly for the office.
PRADA
Miuccia Prada's show was shocking: models looked like the ad pages of
a Seventies fashion mag: geometric prints on silk coats matched with floral
dresses; synthetic fabrics like nylon and polyester. Unconventional, offbeat
colors were the leimotiv of the collection: brown, purple and green. The ultimate
accessory? The new Prada handbag with faux tortoiseshell chain. Though magazines
talked of "banal eccentricity", "ugly look" and "geek chic", it will probably
come up the expectations of Prada fans all over the world.
FERRAGAMO
A chic collection with more sedate referencies to the Sixties: A-lines,
sunny colors, shoe-motif prints for skirts and blouses. A high quality style paired
with value-for-money prices is the key to success of this Florence-based company.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Milan's most celebrated fashion duo returned back to the roots of
Italian style. Their woman resembles a Fifties' diva such as Anna Magnani. Animal-print
caftans (zebra, ocelot and tiger) and head scarves. Couture-like fabrics such as
linens and silk shantungs. A must-have: the emerald-green starlet trench.
MASKA
Wearability is probably the secret of this fast-growing company, which
presented elegant, beautifully made garments. A big hit: the black above-the-knee
sleeveless dress that should be in every woman's wardrobe. The show, directed by
Mario Monicelli, featured as a guest-star Giancarlo Giannini, and as models
actresses Giuliana De Sio, Aurore Clement, Lucrezia Lante Della Rovere,
Margherita Buy and Dayle Haddon, Maska's testimonial.
BLUEMARINE
Pastel colors, petticoat-like dresses in pink lace.
MAX MARA
A classic-with-an-edge style for a contemporary woman. Many white
easy pieces from coats to hot pants. Modern outfits.
MISSONI
Its unmistakable geometric patterns, Missoni's trademark, brilliantly
match with the current retromania: zig-zag-motif tops over long low-waisted
skirts or pants exposing the midriff. One of Missoni's best collections ever.
OLIVER by VALENTINO
"The Chic" made a lot of glamorous, feminine dresses in
pastel colors; he was inspired by the character played by Alicia Silverstone in
Clueless. A BCBG (Bon Chic Bon Gout, french expression for preppy dressing)
look ideal for the fashion conscious girl, which is the target
of Valentino's younger line.
FENDI
Karl Lagerfeld presented a variety of contrasting looks: in the same
collection stiff and fluid silhouettes coexisted. Neon colors macthed with
black for chic bathing suits and signature beach towels.
LAURA BIAGIOTTI
Simplicity is the keyword for Laura Biagiotti.
BYBLOS
Keith Varty and Alan Cleaver of Byblos showed a collection inspired by
"easy dressing" with light Sixties look.
GIANFRANCO FERRE'
Ultra-chic night dresses for the hard-to-please, discerning
woman. Clean, flawless lines for the pantsuits.
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Mermaids are the main source of inspiration for this innovative
designer: we saw sexy dresses in seaside colors such as aquamarine blue and
tight-fitting glossy pants. The show was accompanied by the sensual,
Mediterranean sounds of musician Tullio De Piscopo and by the performance of
dancer Daniel Ezralow.
Gian Marco Ansaloni
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