Fashion & Newsletter - April 1996
Behind the scenes at the Milano Collections
Italian fashion is enjoying a veritable boom thanks also to celebrity
interest in Milan designers and viceversa. Among the many snapping up the
runways there was Woody Allen, performing with his New Orleans jazz band
at the Teatro Smeraldo. He and Soon-Yi took part to the Emporio Armani show on
Via Borgonuovo on March 5th and the following day Woody was the guest star at
the "Dolce&Gabbana" 10th anniversary catwalk. Here, although shielded by
bunch of imposing bodyguards, he became the target of every paparazzo, who
had been lying in wait in vain for hours outside the Four Seasons Hotel.
The Fashion world is always very attentive to charity events like this one,
arranged by Piero Piazzi of Stage by Riccardo Gay model agency at "Rolling
Stone" on March 5th. All the world's greatest models were there: Kate
Moss, Valeria Mazza, Carla Bruni, Eva Herzigova, Marpessa, Nadege and many more. Each model donated the fee of one fashion show to Anlaids, Italy's leading
AIDS charity. The event was presented by Italian tv host Gabriella
Carlucci while fashion photographer Michel Comte took many snapshots of the
"fashion addicted" wearing white shoes (Hogan by Diego Della Valle sponsored the event) that will be collected in a book titled "Step into life" whose proceeds
will go to Anlaids
Probably the times when supermodels could everything with designers
willing to satisfy every whim are definitely ended. Naughty-Naomi arrived
an hour late at the Laura Biagiotti show because, according to the "black
Venus", loitered at a Dolce&Gabbana fitting. Rumors say that usually calm
Laura didn't accept reasons and decided to donate the model's $. 19,000
fee to AIDS charity. Rising star Valeria Mazza wore the final night dress
originally scheduled for Naomi. Well done, Laura!
Since ten years are almost an eternity by fashion standards, to
commemorate such a rare event Milan's most famous design duo gave a party
with a sumptuous Sicilian-style buffet for 200. A photographic history
titled "Ten years of Dolce & Gabbana" was officially presented to press
and friends. A long way has come from the first catwalk held in a Milanese
fast-food!
Many Italian fashion journalists complained of Prada's harsh attitude
towards them. What happened? The cult brand headed by Miuccia Prada didn't
invite to the show many correspondents of major Italian newspapers (La
Stampa, Il Messaggero, L'Unita`, Il Tempo and even Ansa press agency) in
favor of the powerful American press. Patrizio Bertelli, the company's CEO
and Miuccia husband, asserted that those newspapers didn't talk about
their work but reported only gossip and sidebars (who was there and who wasn't
and things like that). Reliable sources instead just think that Prada
didn't accept negative criticisms made by the above-mentioned papers about
their shocking spring-summer collection now in the stores (though
definitions such as "geek chic" and "ugly look" belong to American press).
Anyway this is not the first time that fashion reporters have beenexcluded
from the shows: ultra famous Suzy Menkes of Herald Tribune, for instance,
got no invitations for some Versace, Dior and Ferre` shows years ago. (NB:
Even the veteran Eugenia Shepherd, who defined fashion journalism for a
generation of reporters, had her wings clipped by Givenchy, among others)
by Gian Marco Ansaloni
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