The Bulgari stores, mostly designed by architect Piero Sartogo, always seemed like fortresses. The impeccably dressed ushers who opened the doors intimidated just about everybody. But now, perhaps because nephew Francesco Trapani is CEO, the attitude has changed. The venerable image is being "Tiffany-ized," with a line of silk scarves, leather goods, fancy china and tableware, and guess what! To promote their new watch "Aluminum" Bulgari followed the Perugina Baci (chocolate kisses) example and painted a big fat watch on an Alitalia 747 Jumbo Jet which will fly for a year to the US, Far East, South America, and Australia. Careful, Bulgari, we don't want to lose that mystique now, do we?
We all know that sunglasses have been an important fashion accessory for years, and that Italy leads production, but I'm puzzled by the fact that this season umpteen brands seem to have hit on the exact same shape to feature in their ads, black rectangular frames with almost-black lenses. Let's see now, we have Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Web, Laura Biagiotti, and Fendi, just to name a few. Guess all great minds (or designers) think alike, right?
Speaking of black, BMW has launched a line of accessories and clothes, including helmets, sunglasses, foulards, shirts, leather bags, gloves, boots, and even cigarette lighters. Their Maverick line of jeans and jackets features a special fabric created by the Swiss house Schoeller made of jeans reinforced with Kevlar and Dynafil, which should help protect one's tender skin from a nasty spill on the motorcycle (or scooter).
Every year at the Oscars the debate is whether or not costumes in films have affected what peple are wearing on the streets. But not matter which costume designer takes home the precious statue, it would be difficult if not impossible to realize many of the costumes without theatrical cosume houses such as that of the late Umberto Tirelli in Rome. Now run by his close friend Dino Trapetti, Tirelli furnished more than 200 dresses for "Titanic," many of them period pieces. For "Amistad" some 250 outfits were provided, and 100 for "The Wings of the Dove." Right now they're working on "Midsummer's Nights Dream" currently being filmed in Rome with Michelle Pfeiffer, Kevin Kline, and Rupert Everett. Gabriella Pescucci (Oscar winner in 1994 for "Age of Innocence" designed them. Trapetti feels that long romantic dresses with lace and soft fabrics worn in "Titanic" and "Wings of the Dove" have influenced designers for the coming summer. "I dream of seeing a Costume Museum created in Rome," says Trapetti, "Where I could donate many outfits that not only make up the Tirelli collection but are part of the story of films."
Speaking of Oscars, I can't help wondering if anybody did a tally on exactly who dressed whom. Armani, Versace, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino vied for top honors. But I loved it when Sharon Stone refused to become a "fashion victim," last year putting aside the lavish Valentino gown furnished to her for a turtleneck top from Gap combined with a wide skirt, and this year one of her husband's white shirts with a skirt from Dolce & Gabbana. The ABC Oscar site furned details on the gowns of the stars and their jewels.
The new generation is taking over, and not just at Bulgari. Tai and Rosita Missoni's children have been working for the family firm ever since they were old enough to knit (just kidding!) but daughter Angela, who launched her own line of clothes a few seasons ago, has now taken over as the offical Missoni designer and image-maker. For many fashion insiders Missoni never went out of style, but there was a resurgence over a year ago, and Angela is also freshening up the Missoni image. An impressive ad campaign was organized by Angela, using photographer Mario Testini and stylist Carine Roitfeld. To the tunes of "The Sound of Music" 18-year-old American model Angela Lindwall twirled as Testini's flashes popped. "The evolution of our fashion must have an immediate impact," said Angela to Italian news magazine Panorama. In Mario's photographs I saw a love for color and a clean, feminine style. Just what I wanted." You can admire the ads in the fashion magazines.
Logan Bentley Lessona
