Less than an hour by train from Milan, this is one of those marvelous old-style grand hotels with roccoco architecture but all the modern conveniences. Most of the rooms have lakeside views, and the large public rooms are light, airy, and comfortable. On arrival guests who want to do the spa program are visited by a doctor, and they work out the schedule together. There's an outside pool as well and a small indoor one, used for water exercises. Treatments include massage, facials, aromatherapy. Food in the diet program may be the best in Italy. I stayed here for three days and, although I'm not crazy about lakes, I had a wonderful rest and lost a couple of pounds. One night I went to the nearby theater where a piano competition was underway, but after hearing one of Chopin's works played three times I'd had enough. Long lakeside walks can be very pleasant, and there are a number of interesting shops to visit. Expensive, but definitely worth it. And then, when you're in shape, you can hit all those great boutiques in Milan!

Hotel Iles Borromees, Corso Umberto I, 67, 28838 Stresa (VB), Tel: 39-0323-038938, Fax: 32405