The journey from grape to bottle is defined by two very important processes, beginning with life in the vineyard. The best grapes will thrive in good vintages, influenced by the very soil they grow in, the conditions around them and their proximity to other vines and how and when they are harvested. But what happens next is as important – the process of vinification. This is where the grapes are manipulated by the winemaker in order to maximise the quality of the end product.

For red wines, the must of the grapes undergoes fermentation together with the skins. Fermentation yeast is added which converts the sugars into alcohol. The “free run” wine is pumped off and the skins are pressed to extract more flavour. Then a second fermentation takes place, converting malic acid into lactic acid, which gives the wine a softer taste. If a wine is destined for oak ageing, it is transferred to the barrel.

Italian red wines are known for their full bodied style, and this has historically been achieved by extended ageing in large “botti” (oak barrels). Often it was written into the DOC laws that wines had to be aged for a substantial period. The barrels were topped up at intervals as wine evaporated, and oxidation was common. While this method of long term ageing has not always been successful, many of Italy’s best wines were aged this way, and some of these can still be found at auction fetching high prices. But many wines were criticised for being low in fruit and high in tannin. Consequently the barrique was introduced, a much smaller barrel of high quality oak – also referred in Italian as “carato” or “caratello”) that ensured that the wines would not emerge as oxidised and unapproachable.

White wines are made by crushing the grapes to extract juice and the skins are removed at this point. Historically white wines from Italy tended to have a deep straw colour, with no distinct bouquet and a flat, lifeless taste – far removed from the crisp, delightful aperitif wines that we enjoy today. The main influence on the change has been the introduction of refrigeration in the winery. This enabled fermentation temperature to be controlled, preventing malo-lactic fermentation which is desirable in reds but can produce off-flavours in white wines.

Stainless steel has also been important in achieving the clean modern wines that have gained great popularity. Balance is crucial, as we have learned in recent years that Italian whites can be neutral to the point of lacking flavour, but fortunately we have seen a shift back to delicately aromatic wines with secondary flavours in abundance. Italian white wines are often regarded by the winemakers as accompaniments to food, rather than for drinking alone, and so their neutrality is often seen as a positive attribute. Either way, the desired effect is achieved in the winery.

The Italians have a great respect for tradition, particularly in the vineyard where the affinity of grapes with their climate and soil has long been responsible for producing wines that are distinctively Italian and bursting with character. But in the winery there is room for creativity – through experimentation and innovation the Italians have become a pioneering nation of winemakers who others look to for inspiration.

Vinification

A great variety

Depending on the vintage, modern Italy is the world’s largest or second largest wine producer around the world. But Italy is also the richest country for grape varieties: they are about 370, scattered in the territory and deeply influenced by differences in climate and landscape.